Topping the trad
mountain range are twin peaks that dominate the landscape: Brooks Brothers and J. Press. While the former is the Big Daddy
of trad and prep consensus, J. Press is the backbone of the Ivy League Look.
What's the difference between the two styles you ask? Allow my imagination to vomit
some imagery:
Trad
Brooks Brothers. Harvard Boy (click
on link). WASP. 1962. Don Draper. Ask
Andy Forums. OCBD, Chinos, Bluchers. Making The Grade. Madison
Avenue. Ronald Regan. Classic All-American
Ivy League Look
J Press. Yalie. Jew. 1955. Pete Campbell. Film Noir Buff Forums.
Shetland Crewneck, Wool Slacks, Pennies. The Good Shepard. Wall Street.
John F. Kennedy. Clean Cut Academic.
J. Press was founded in 1902 by a
Jewish immigrant from Lativia named Jacobi Press in the
Yale town of New Haven, CT. For over a hundred years, the gentleman's outfitter
has been synonymous with the elite Ivy League universities and the resulting
TNSIL (The Natural Shoulder Ivy League Look- referring to absent
shoulder padding in suits and sportcoats).
Founder Jacobi Press at the first
J.Press store in New Haven.
J. Press as seen in Take Ivy
J. Press's appeal is its
exclusivity. The fact that you own a Press item or can spot the brushed
shetland wool of a Shaggy Dog puts you in a special club deserving of Skulls
and Bones snobbery. Any preppie and fratstar can have a dozen Brooks Brothers
OCBDs in their closets, but a true connoisseur of classic New England style will
have Press thoroughly represented in his collection. A few Shaggies in GTH colors of
Salmon and Kelly Green and neutral colors of Grey and Navy. Medium Grey flat
front wool slacks. An array of OCBDs with the famous Flap Pocket, a trad mannerism
ubiquitous of J.Press. And if you're lucky enough to call Yale your Alma mater,
a Press patch
from your college of study adorned on your 3/2 roll
natural shouldered blazer, which I consider Press to be the brand of choice
for your blue blazer due to their academic background.
Unlike Brooks and its nationwide
locations in shopping malls and airports, J. Press has garnered its high esteem
with only four stores in America in New Haven, Cambridge, New York, and Washington DC, and a few in Japan, as
well as keeping a minimalist feel to its website. You won't see fashion models
or campaigns in Press's online catalog; nor branching out into women's and
children's clothing. J. Press has always focused on traditional men's tailoring, and under ownership of Onward Kashiyama, which acquired the rights
from the Press family in 1986, J Press continues to have its golden influence
on the Ivy League look. Gotta leave it to our Japanese brothers for keeping Trad
and TNSIL alive! (note: Take Ivy was written by a Japanese author for
the Japanese market)
With Press's current summer sale
(as of this post date: 30 to 40% with additional 20% off on select items with
code SUMMER20), I pretended not to have a budget and splurged on staple items
from the Bulldog to mix with the ocean of Golden Fleece and Ponies in my
closet. I don't mind spending extra on what some may consider trivial items, as
these are quality essentials that I hope will last for the rest of my life.
OCBD: $55 each from original $100
Shaggy Dog: $110 from $195
(lowest I've seen them go)
Super 110's Trousers in Medium
Grey: $140 from $250
Lambswool Scarf: $33 from
$60
The trim fit, new for the 110th
Anniversary collection, is surprisingly true-to-name. Slimmer than Brooks
Brother's Slim Fit but roomier than their Extra Slim Fit. A nice go-between.
Made in USA and with the legendary flap pocket.
More of that delicious Made in USA goodness. The
dress slacks are offered in regular, short, and high rise. I decided to go with
the fashionable short rise, which I'm happy to report is not hipster
restricting in the crotch area. The pants are nicely cut, but Press does offer
a slimmer, albeit pricier, 110th
anniversary trouser with back belt loop, made in Brooklyn.
Stocking up for winter. Kelly
Green Shaggy with Shetland wool made in Scotland. The 2011 model (closeout
price) is slimmer than years past, which really means it now fits regular. You
can spot a fellow Shaggy by the brushed wool which gives the sweater its lamb
coat appeal, as well as the ribbed wrists that are meant to be cuffed, as seen
in the first collection picture above. A medium fits my 6'1" 180lb frame
well. I could possibly get away with a small if I wanted a trim look.
The famously Scottish Drsgdn
Tartan has a play of dark greens, blues, and yellows, perfect to compliment my
clothes in the colder months.
Insider protip: J.Press occasionally holds a warehouse clearance sale where their old stock can be had for up to 70 to 80% off original price (ex. Shaggy Dogs for $50). Unfortunately, these sales only take place in New York City on the 29th Floor of 530 Seventh Ave, which happens to lie in the heart of the city's Garment District. However, even more unfortunate is the recent news among trad circles that Press is doing away with this practice, having just cancelled a planned clearance sale this summer. Damn, what a shame. I was looking forward to visiting one day and having an orgasm.
Read more about the history of J.
Press from Ivy
Style's interview with Richard Press, the grandson of Jacobi Press.
Photo Credits:
Actually, because, as you rightly note, J. Press is owned by OK, it has locations in Japan. At least four that I know about, including one about five minutes from my current location. This is always a constant threat to my pocket book. I snapped a photo of my location here:
ReplyDeletehttp://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m511uhiNE81r9v95co1_1280.png
Oh, right, also, from the Osaka location: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wqEiZkN_h_0/TGSvVENebOI/AAAAAAAAAis/DHgW4nXvXBs/s1600/IMG_1185.JPG
ReplyDeleteAnd I bought my Bass Weejuns at that location as well.
Ahh rightly so, will edit. Was thinking more of the American stores. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteTony,
ReplyDeleteI love your "been had Press" line, so funny. I would love to hear a review of your Shaggy Dog. Man I need one.
Kionon - I am super jealous of your proximity to a J.Press store.
OCBD, will write up more about the Shaggy when it gets colder. Thanks for reading! Now is the time to get them cheap, but I think they hover around $135 when Press has an early Winter sale, probably the best time to snag the more popular colors if you have a common size.
ReplyDelete