Trad Mannerisms: The Nature of Formality

I attended a few semi-to-formal events this past semester (which was my toughest yet, sorry for the hiatus.) Knowing what to wear and how to dress for such occasions is a cornerstone for the young collegiate trad. Gone are the days where a simple tucked in over sized shirt borrowed from Dad and pleated khakis are sufficient for your aunt's wedding. Dressing well and paying attention to the details gives you an air of manliness and can set you apart from the rest of your friends wearing baggy khakis and a pair of Billfish Sperries to the Sorority crush dance. Doing so will always get you noticed, and as you may have guessed, I deeply enjoy dressing up as it's my excuse to break away from the ordinary. It is your opportunity to assert your sartorial knowledge and swag. Dressing well can certainly help improve your image. Illustrated from these past few months, I've received countless compliments from my lady friends, respected admiration from older folks and professors, and was named "Best Dressed" by my fraternity. Nowadays, I'm jokingly labeled as Mr. GQ among my social circle. It's great to be known for something, and dressing well ain't a bad way to be summed up.

The setting and date always dictates what you can wear, and this principle is especially important for dressier occasions. As someone on the cusp of adulthood, you will have social and fraternity formals, weddings, cocktails, interviews, conventions, religious ceremonies, graduations, and so on to attend. Each individual event has its own characterized formality that offer hints of what you can get away with. The following are three happenings that I attended recently and my reasoning for each attire. A lot of thought goes into each of my outfits and putting that much effort goes a long way.


School Formal

My graduate program holds an annual winter's ball in late January. I drove my date in my brother's convertible and met with our dinner party at an exclusive Italian restaurant downtown. Not gonna lie, I felt awesomely Draper-ed as I sipped on my Old Fashion and conversed with my friends. The suit does that to you. Afterwards we hopped to the adjacent bar for another drink before heading to the Museum of Science and History where the ball took place. The soaring T-Rex and flying space capsules served as backdrop and gave the night a magical feel, and wearing my formal outfit gave me great confidence that evening.

Since it was still a school sponsored event, my professors were in attendance. Taking this into account, I went with a fashionably conservative outfit. My solid navy Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald suit has a streamlined cut without being overly skinny. I always recommend a spread collar, and in this case, my repp tie is a comfortable slim width, thus the collar matches by not being too wide, such as that in an Londoner spread (general rule is that the wider the spread, the larger the tie and tie knot).

The cut of the suit makes or breaks your appearance, and is the most important factor in formal wear. There are many great guides out there that you can research yourself, but my general rules for suits are:

1) Slim but not too skinny is best for all occasions. Tie and shirt should reflect this as well.
2) Wear your chest size and have minimal shoulder padding, or if possible, TNSIL (Traditional Natural Shoulder Ivy League)
3) 2 buttons or 3/2 roll.
4) Leave enough space at your wrist to show 1/4 to 1/2 inch of your dress shirt. You may have to have a tailor take it in. This is extremely important! Nothing bothers me more than a guy wearing a nice suit with long sleeves.
5) No belt after 6pm. Belts add bulk and are more for business, not pleasure. Therefore your pants waist size should be perfect and tight enough to not droop. Or wear braces.
6) Most suits will need some sort of alteration. Have the tailor take in the sides, and if need be, the arms.
7) Slim flat front pants to match the slim jacket. If you have a large drop, as in my case a 10-drop (such as my 42 chest and 32 waist), your pants may need to be heavily altered or re-cut. I'd actually recommend buying suiting separates if you have a large drop to save you the worry.
8) No break. Personally I enjoy a trad friendly cuff on suits which help weigh down a shorter inseam.
9) Accessories: engine-turned or solid silver tie clip, white pocket square, dress watch with black leather band, black polished captoe shoes are my staples.
10) If it is your first suit, go with a navy 2 buttoned suit. No hate for the grey, but it's slightly more common than navy (but anything is better than black!). Janie Bryant, the costume director of Mad Men, once said that she always dressed Pete, the aspiring young executive on the TV show, in shades of blue because it represents youthfulness. Perfect for the young trad embarking on the world.
11) Polished shoes. Straight lacing.
12) You may have to fight with your tailor to get your way. These professionals unfortunately tailor for the unaware masses, and you are much more knowledgeable and have a better eye for aesthetics. I had to convince the tailor at Brooks Brothers over and over that I indeed wanted no break on my pants, to keep my jacket arm length short enough at the wrist, and to slim down the whole suit. It made a rather uncomfortable experience, and I have many similar stories to tell! But remember that you are the customer at the end of the day.

Because it was still Winter, although a mild one, I wore my Brooks Brothers rain overcoat (which is my only proper overcoat anyway) and a white cashmere scarf. It's appropriate to wear a white scarf to contrast a black tuxedo, as seen by Jeff Bridges in Iron Man, and I adopted the practice for my dark navy suit.

Once your formal wardrobe expands, you can start experimenting with more style and color combinations. I love the way walnut wingtips look with a medium blue suit, for example. This Brooks Brothers dark navy suit is my first real suit (to replace my starter Macy's line Alfani that I got rid of a long time ago), and my only suit as of this moment. I can wear it to interviews, formals, and if need be, funerals. My future suit plans, in order of purchase, will be a "fashion forward" urban-prep slim charcoal or sharkskin (i.e. RL Black Label or BB Milano), a medium grey flannel (i.e. J. Press), a khaki for the summer, and a tweed for the winter. But I will always recommend a navy 2 button suit for your first initial purchase.

It's hard to pinpoint the specific trad mannerisms, but they are there. Minimal shoulder padding, short break with a cuff, repp tie. But other than that, the overall rules for formal wear and trad are really just the same. Meaning there is no clear distinction and it's best to focus on looking good and sexy. It's not like you have to consciously be trad 100% of the time. Be sleek and simple and you'll win.

The running theme of this blog is that nice clothes can be cheap (See: Part III). In this case, even my best formal ensemble was put together on a budget.

-Brooks Brothers Navy Solid Fitzgerald Cut suit, USA, $500 via Brooks Brothers Post-Christmas sale (originally $1000) minus $200 via Christmas gift card from family.
-Club Room spread collar slim fit dress shirt, $15 on sale, Macy's
-Bostonian Black Captoe Shoes (confession: I don't own the fashion standard Allen Edmonds Park Avenues just yet, but one day soon I'll replace these Bostonians as my dressy shitkickers), $90 minus $50 via gift card, Belk
-Tommy Hilfiger wide repp 3 1/4" tie (I like this style because it is reminiscent of the 1950s Madison Ave look, especially this classic dark red and navy color scheme), $12 on sale, Macy's
-Engine turned silver tie clip, gift
-Pocket Square, inherited from my father
-Bucherer Swiss Watch with black faux crocodile leather, inherited from my father
-Brooks Brothers Regent rain overcoat, $70, Garland NC factory store
-Ralph Lauren Cashmere scarf, Italy, $30 on sale, Belk



Fraternity Spring Formal

For social and greek events, I let the occasion speak for itself. Collegiate events like these are meant to be fun and you can get away with wearing semi-formal attire such as a blazer and chinos. This year's fraternity formal took place at the beach town of Wilmington, NC in late March, and so I wore loud colors to celebrate the atmosphere and warm climate. I wore this same outfit to Easter as well.

What makes a semi-formal festive trad mannerism? Letting your inner preppiness come out and combining it with the tradly garb. GTH colors, sockless pennies, reversible bowtie.

A few things to take notice. The madras is accentuated by the reversible #4 repp side of the bowtie. Barefoot pennies. Gold accents from the aviators, blazer buttons, and surcingle belt buckle...speaking of which, why it's so important to have a navy surcingle in your belt collection, as it serves to ground the Nanny Red while exemplifying the warm climate with its cotton material.

Another reason why I chose not to wear a suit is because it was a warm evening, and we went clubbing and bar hopping downtown after the dinner. I didn't want to get my suit ruined by spilled drinks and sweat, and even left my blazer at my hotel room and strolled down the boardwalk in just my bowtie. I normally don't remove the jacket if it was a regular long tie, but a bowtie can be inherently casual and "fun". The bowtie and Nanny combo got me a lot of high fives from random dudes and twinkled glances from pretty ladies.

 

-J. Press Blazer, USA

-LL Bean OCBD

-Brooks Brothers reversible bowtie, USA

-Lands End Nanny Reds

-Lands End surcingle belt

-Cole Haan penny loafers

-American Optical Original Pilot aviators, USA

-Seiko 5 watch

Graduation

I still have a while to go before I adorn the cap and gown, but I attended my program's graduation this weekend to say farewell to my upperclassmen friends. I am pursuing a Doctor of Pharmacy and our academic regalia is symbolized by an olive green hood. For this occasion, I wore my olive green Brooks Brothers Argyle and Sutherland to match the pomp and circumstance. (Funny enough, I lent my bow tie with school colors to a friend, and he received numerous compliments including from the President of the University. That bastard stole my show!).

In case you haven't noticed, I wear a Navy Blazer to many of my semi-formal events. It is a huge staple in your wardrobe and the reason why I suggest investing in a good one. The navy blazer has an academic tradition and was a perfect fit for graduation.

I don't like the idea of wearing lace ups without socks, as I do with loafers and pennies, so I matched the shoe color with tan dress socks. Anything darker would take away from the summer feel of the seersucker pants.

 

-J. Press Blazer, USA
-LL Bean OCBD
-BB Argyle and Sutherland tie, USA
-BB Hudson fit seersucker pants
-Trafalgar Engine Turned Plaque and dark brown Calf belt strap
-J. Crew Socks
-Cole Haan saddle bucks, vintage, USA
-Bucherer Swiss Watch with black faux crocodile leather

Layering for Sweater Weather

Depending on where you live in the lower 48 (or perhaps most of the year in the 49th), chilly weather can mean anything from a t-shirt with a light sweater to a down jacket on top of multiple layers. In the southeast, where the winter climate tends to be schizophrenic and can shift from a comfortable 61 degrees to a freezing 30 degrees in less than a week, it is important to know your layering options to prepare for the worst. Here are a few examples for your inspiration.

*For additional warmth, add a base layer such as a V-Neck undershirt (which hides from view) or a Thermal.



Two Layers:


OCBD under a Long Sleeve Polo
This is an easy look for a brisk day. It's also rather rare and very trad, a throwback to the layering exploration of the 1980s. But unlike our preppy forebearers, you should never pop the polo collar. Ever. Same with an OCBD under a short sleeve polo, or a long sleeve polo under an OCBD. It just won't look as good as in the picture above. I like wearing a tattersall underneath to finish this casual sporty look.



OCBD under a Long Sleeve Rugby
I played rugby in my freshman year. And by "play", I mean attended a practice. And by "attend", I mean tossed a ball a few times before realizing my skinny 150lb frame (at the time) would get crushed. But it's a fun sport to watch and I'll throw on a Rugby jersey and wear it as a light sweater during my Weekend Warrior moments. Authenticity is extremely important to me, so I would rather wear a jersey from Canterbury of New Zealand than from RL Rugby, even if this rugby shirt is from Canterbury's fashion line. Minor detail but underneath is a university red stripe which goes with the collegiate texture of the sport.



T-Shirt under a Shawl Cardigan
Big fan of the shawl cardigan sweater. It screams luxury, especially this white cable knit. Can be worn dressed up for a formal day or dressed down for a sleepy afternoon. To casual-fy the outfit, I'd wear a neutral crew t-shirt such as this heather gray Hanes shirt. Pair the combo with a nice sport watch, slim chinos, and loafers the next time you sail down Venice.




OCBD under a Shetland Crewneck Sweater
LL Bean is on God Tier in the prep hierarchy, and my recent pick up of this sky blue shetland and my experience attaining it confirms that for me. First off, the crewneck shetland is a staple tradly item. This one was an affordable $40 full price for the 2011 winter season, cheap enough to be sold out by the end of the year. I must've been a few days late, as the sweater was marked down to $30 but my size was gone and the popular sky blue had already sold out. So I emailed customer support and a nice woman wrote a personable message referring me to their retail location in Mansfield, MA where there was one last sweater in stock. I immediately called and ordered from another helpful sales associate. For added kicks, I was able to stack my $10 promotional card from my last Bean purchase to end up paying only $20 for the sweater. Free shipping included directly from the store. Rule #10 in action. Fun stuff.

I have a solid yellow RL OCBD underneath for a very early Easter palate.

*As of this post date, the shetland sweater is back on the LL Bean website for full price in limited colors, including the sky blue. The small and medium sizes are already sold out haha.



Ringer T-Shirt under a Shawl Sweater
I like ringer shirts as a base layer and have a few in my portfolio. The ringed neck acts as a visual cue to break up the plainess. Wear a ringer to casual-fy relatively formal clothing such as this shawl.



Ringer T-Shirt under a Tennis Cable Knit Sweater
Same as the lesson above, this ringer tee balances out the opulent sweater.



Short Sleeve Polo under a 1/4 Zip Sweater
Here I don't mind popping the sweater collar. Don't double pop the polo.



Long Sleeve Polo under a V-Neck Sweater
The button down shirt under a v-neck is easy, so for a different take you can use a polo instead. This polo and sweater are made out of light cotton which worked well for a mild late Autumn day. As seen before, I really liked this modernistic violet and sand color combo.



Gingham OCBD under a Collared Sweater
Similar to wearing a button down under a polo. I'd recommend an OCBD in these types of ensembles because it helps keep the collar up to balance the sweater collar laying down.



Three Layers:


OCBD under a Fair Isle Crewneck Sweater with Bomber Jacket
The jacket has a quilted lining which helps keep me toasty. Both the Bomber and Fair Isle were passed down from my Grandfather.



"The Rule of 3"
Let's say you go for a tie optional outfit for a formal occasion. A button down shirt and a jacket without the tie will always looks odd in non-casual settings (some would argue in all settings, but we'll save that for another time). So an appropriate response is to abide by the Rule of 3, where that third item unites the first two. Trip from A Trip Down South explains it very well. A light v-neck sweater adequately replaces a tie, as does a vest. A festive color like bright red or green can spruce your look up for a holiday party.



Four Layers:


Overcoat
By your fourth layer you are probably talking about an overcoat. The important rule pertaining to an overcoat is that it should always be longer than your sportcoat or blazer. Longer the coat the more formal. But keep it above the knees and leave the dragging Harry Potter cloaks in your dad's closet.

As usual, keep the blazer or suit jacket underneath buttoned when standing up. The overcoat can be worn both ways (I keep it buttoned outside, unbuttoned when inside).

This is a Brooks Brothers rain coat and is my only proper overcoat at the moment. I've worn it during a few chilly evenings but the removable quilted lining keeps it adequately warm, as does the rest of the layers.

Notice the sleeve length. Many overcoats tend to be too long and end half way past your hand. Ideally you want to be able to see the sum of layers at your wrist, meaning you may want to keep your overcoat sleeves a tad bit short.

Going along with that, all layered outfits should have the underneath layer peeking at the wrist (unless it is short sleeve). For multiple layers, pyramid each of the skins on top of each other, giving way to the one below it. The visual cues at the wrists help complete the layering look.

Lastly, I haven't focused on winter accessories but you should invest in beanies, scarves, gloves, etc. as needed. Wool and cashmere are safe bets with fabric depending on the occasion.

Tattersall

The fogey gentlemen across the pond gave us Yankees a lot to be thankful for in our style. Anything trad and its preppy offspring have very strong Anglo-Saxon roots. They gave us desert boots, trench coats, brougues, spread collars, Ralph's marketing (polo anyone?) and so on. You name it and the English were there first.

The imagery of the Country Gentleman is my favorite. Stallions grazing behind decades-aged logged fencing. Rolling misty hills with plumes of smoke bellowing out of the cabin. Fox hunting with Barbours, Wellingtons, vintage William Powell 12 gauges, and your trusty lab retriever. Once you've caught and eaten your game, host your mates with glasses of Scotch in your flannel-lined library and talk about Parliament. I dunno....maybe its better to watch than to read.

Since its best served on a frosty day, I associate the Country Gentleman with late Fall and Winter. Tattersall is a favorite cloth pattern for the British hunters, whom they refer it as Check pattern, and a natural cold weather brother to the warmer Gingham. Whereas Gingham conjures up picnic tables and straw hats, Tattersall suggests a rustic country feel. The namesake is based on Tattersall's, an auctioneer of race horses established in 1766 and based in London. Blankets with regularly spaced warp and weft stripes, usually in alternating colors, were placed on the horses to keep them warm and presentable. Tattersall, which may also be synonymous with Windowpane along with Check, is now widely used and enjoyed by all.

Trust the Brits for their original Tattersall shirts. The button-down collar is an American style, so many of the English brands will offer spread or point collars with only a minor selection of button-downs. I like the affordable Charles Tyrwhitt, ourdoorsy Barbour, and the classic Cordings. If you must buy 'Murrican, besides the usual like Brooks and Land's End, O'Connell's in-house brand makes a pricey but quality shirt. Vineyard Vines offers many variations of Tattersalls as well, if you can get over the fratty whale logo.

Two brands I highly recommend include Orvis, America's premier outdoorman's brand, which makes a fine Tattersall. Orvis has widely-spaced box designs with alternating colors that are distinctive and beautiful. You can see me wear my Orvis Tattersall in my most recent pictorial article. Here would be my two picks from the 2011 F/W season (which were sold out online by November).



The second is Viyella, which is named after the fabric blend first woven in England in the late 19th century and is known as the first branded fabric in the world. The fabric consists of 80% cotton and 20% wool, which helps keep you warm but breathable when you're duck hunting in the fields. So in essence, with its English roots and practicality, this is the Tattersall you should look for. Viyella branded shirts tend to be expensive and can be purchased at Orvis and the like, but I found mine (vintage, made in USA...why USA and not the UK? Because it was probably cheaper for outsourcing haha) on eBay for $15. Viyella has had a storied history and is now owned by upmarket English retailer Austin Reed.



Whether it be from Viyella, Orvis, or Target, I recommend a Tattersall in a golden tan or yellow swatch with alternating earthy tones like burgundy, orange, and green. Imagine all of the clothing combos you can pair with the subtle lines. These Autumn colors go perfectly with the country side or an outdoor sport. Wear it as a base layer under a crewneck shetland and topped with a quilt or hunting jacket and you are set to tend to the estate.




My current collection of Tattersalls.
From top to bottom:
Viyella alternating hunter green, dark blue, and burgundy on dark tan
Brooks Brothers Black Fleece mini navy check on white
Orvis large alternating sky blue, violet, green, and orange on tan
Brooks Brothers James tattersall pattern navy and sky blue on white
Brooks Brothers alternating light brown, dark brown, and blue on light tan
Ralph Lauren alternating windowpane yellow and blue on white
Brooks Brothers navy on white



Close up of the Viyella logo.



Since we're on the topic of winter fabrics, here are a few of my others. Personally I am not a huge fan of plaid, tartan, and flannel patterns because I instantly think of Al from Home Improvement. But don't let me prevent you from pulling out your inner Ted Bundy when you're chopping down firewood.
From top to bottom:
Brooks Brothers multi check
Gap plaid
Brooks Brothers black watch tartan (green is faint due to lighting)
Faconnable paintbrush (made in USA)

I also have a vintage Pendleton flannel passed down from my grandfather. Doesn't get worn very much but it's a nice memento to simpler times.

JanSport Original Right Pack

You rarely ever think about it, but the styling of your backpack is as noticeable as your choice of shoes. It's easy to forget since we see this item as more as an educational necessity than as an extension of our tastes, but is there anything else we wear more on a daily basis besides a backpack? We should pay ode to its function and utility that we use for our books- or just a laptop in my case (who buys books past freshman year?) - by using one that aligns to our tastes.

I see a lot of guys on campus with a North Face or Under Armour bag. This is a fairly recent trend, probably starting around the time neo-prep fleece jackets or Ugg Boots started to get popular. I think the standard black NF pack is all too common these days, and a young trad can go a step farther and stick with something more tried and proven.

Enter the Jansport Right Pack, weighing down students for almost three decades. Why do I recommend this boring looking pack? Because it flies in the face of all of the current styling of today. It is extremely basic, made in a time where there were no need for cell phone and iPod pockets. No flashy and athletic material since you should'nt store your cleats right next to your English essay. And no extra outdoorsey bells and whistles, because your accompanying Mountain Hardwear technical jacket and Fratagonia beanie have never actually seen a hiking trail.

I have a lasting impression of the Right Pack. One cold and rainy Autumn night during my freshman year, I was walking to my evening class when I noticed a graduate student with a bright green rainjacket, OCBD, chinos, Topsiders, and a navy Right Pack. My campus at the time was not a very preppy one at all and I was still a novice at my own trad style, so this was a great scene to me. The description may sound bland, but the details all came together as an eloquently put-together outfit, and I use that image as an inspiration years later.

Another romantic image I have of the Right Pack is as an important piece to the "Harvard Boy" look, as described in my Pea Coat article (where I of course, also mentioned the backpack). A grungy, Dawson's Creek- 90s era, a Hopkins medical resident walking in the emergency room and preparing for a long night, taking off his Pea Coat and Orioles cap to reveal his scrubs underneath, and a red Right Pack, bruised and battered from years of undergrad and med school studies, still serving its owner well into his future career. This also may have been a scene in ER during the Clooney days.

Taken from Harris Tweed Jacket's old blog, these two pictures are from an old Japanese article (we thank our Far East brothers for being the saviors of Trad, i.e. Take Ivy) with pictures taken at ivy league schools in the 1980s. You can see a red Right Pack below.


Worn loose and on one shoulder, you can stick your Barbour Bedale between the straps. Your other arm should be around a sorority sister, maybe this couple's daughter.
There are some downsides to the Right Pack. As stated, it does not have many superfluous pockets, which actually do come in handy for all of today's technological comforts. No place to put a water bottle either. Still, like with all tradly things, its a pack you can wear without looking dated in a few decades from now. You can look like a poser in a North Face, or like the guys above in their Right Packs.

Updated alternatives that I like that are equally as preppy to the Right Pack include the LL Bean Deluxe Book Pack (but leave the initials for the girls) and the Kegger from the JanSport Heritage Series. The leather markings on the Kegger pay homage to some of their earlier models that used leather similiarly to the Right Pack's leather bottom in order to delay wear and tear. Seems like all the best stuff was made before the age of man-made material.

There are some neo-prep stuff that I like, such as Kelty backpacks, but unless you do climb mountains regularly you should try to keep the amount of tech down (no, "hikes" across campus don't count). The extra straps and material make packs too cumbersome and heavy and don't serve a purpose for your walks in between class. Or just have seperate bags for your books and your outdoor hobbies.

The Right Pack is offered in many colors, but I like classics Navy and Red the best.

Trad Mannerisms: Who's got short shorts?

Today's high reached 97 degrees. That's not just hot, that's Holy-Crap-Gonna-Die temperature as soon as you walk out the door. That's instantly sweating just as your presence ungraciously decided to leave the miracle of air conditioning. I love summer but around this time each and every year, I get tired of this mess and a certain beloved article of clothing makes it a tad more bearable in this sweltering heat. Some clothing-minded [anal] purists refuse to wear shorts and wouldn't dare show some leg unless at the beach, but they also probably never lived in a hot climate and unless I had to be somewhere formal, I'd take bare over linen any day. My perfect summer outfit consists of a lightweight OCBD tucked into shorts, but sometimes we worry so much about getting the right fit of our top part of the outfit that we often neglect the bottom. For the fashionably inclined, correct short length is just as important as knowing your dress shirt measurements by heart. Preppy shorts are known to be extra short, not just hitting at the knee but generously above it. I realize this breaks your middle school notion that looking like John Stockton is social suicide and by no means am I saying that the cotton needs to hug you, but you shouldn't be afraid to explore this "final frontier" of men's clothing. I am unsure of the genesis to short shorts, but if we stay true to the trad ideal of function over form, short shorts allow better free movement and heat exchange than the 11" inseam Gap shorts we usually see. Shorts made their mark with the arrival of Bermuda shorts in the 1950s, with a conservative stop point right at the knee as a semi-casual alternative to trousers. I suspect athletics had a major part of shortening the inseam with guys like McEnroe and the Doctor tearing up their respective courts in their respective bikinis. But by the time Michael Jordan and the Fab Five dominated, the inseam took revenge and broke loose to the other end of the spectrum, hitting uncomfortably below the knee and in some shorts today, at the ankles...just as bad as seeing your pasty quads. So if shorts shouldn't be too high or too low, what is the perfect inseam for a trad perspective? Leaning towards Stockton but far away from Speedos:

Shorts should hit just above the start of your thigh.
This is generally speaking and in most cases. Short enough to appear preppy at first glance without provoking controversy. Why not just "at the knee"? Because that is where it should fall for the common man (and still this is a roadblock for most guys), but the preppiness inside all of us wants to be a bare legged tease. Try on some soccer shorts and you'll get the picture. Much like the distant cousin, No Break, we want to show off some skin to give off the preppy vibe without being distasteful or being laughed at. A few inches above the knee is the goal where your quadriceps, or *cough* Vastus Medialis Obliquus begins. The fratstars and southern prep guys tend to go shorter, sometimes as far as mid-thigh. I'll leave that to personal taste but just make sure your boxers don't creep out when you sit down in the classroom.

Why are short shorts distinctively preppy? Besides the obvious lineage to how athletes wore their shorts in traditional prep school sports (again, tennis great McEnroe as example), one major reason is that present common day fashion dictates that longer is better and trad is usually the opposite of that and immune to any hiccup style trends. Seeing someone wearing chino shorts in an anti-sloppy manner shows his allegiance. Take a look at some of the major preppy brands. Patagonia Stand Up shorts in 5" and 7" inseams. Ralph Lauren Andrew shorts in 6". Vineyard Vines Chappy swim shorts at 8". Could you see a regular guy in these? Nope; reserved only to those with enough balls to wear them out (notice I did not say hang out).
Aesthetically, short shorts balance you out. It makes you look taller and streamlined and less like an eight year old son swallowed up in his father's clothes. Especially since we tend to tuck things in, 7" shorts look better than a 11" paired with an OCBD or polo. Plus there is some unwritten trad rule that the heavier or longer the top of your outfit is, the shorter your shorts can go, like this member from the AAAC illustrates with his Stand Ups. It's an outdoorsey minded style that makes regular folk go "huh?" much like beaten-in penny loafers or a vintage gray Champion sweatshirt over a tattersall.

As I alluded to, there is a fine art in the perfect spot where your shorts should hit, and it depends largely on height. I stand at 6'1" and have found that 7" to 8" inseam shorts fit perfectly. Unfortunately there are not many makers that offer this off-the-rack and so I resort to tailoring my shorts as needed. Guys taller than me can get away with the standard nine and guys shorter can look great in the five or six. Let your eyes be your judgment.

It also depends on the material of your shorts. Chinos and athletic shorts (lacrosse, soccer, rugby) tend to be at the 7" to 8" range for my liking. Certain summer material may have an excuse to go to the usual 9" right above or at the knee, such as seersucker and gingham. Merely my own preference though, but unless you are a giant, keep 9 inches at the extreme and never foray into the 10+ range.

Lastly, if you have toothpicks for legs then get them in shape before you show off your quads and calves! Squats and deadlifts is all you need for the girls to notice :)




Going to the gym with my old high school lacrosse shorts. Taking the high rise into account, these shorts have a 7" inseam.

My trusty reds, tailored to the perfect 8" inseam. The majority of my shorts are 7 to 8 inches. You want your quads to peak out. (This outfit makes a great patriotic palette btw).


The longest I'd go in length, these Nautica shorts have a 9" inseam and hit just above my knee. I reserve this length for summer fabrics such as seersucker or critter patterns, and let the motif do the talking.

The Fun Shirt

My Go To Hell post featured one of the trad holy grails resting in my closet: the Brooks Brothers "Fun" shirt. Not sure what it is but we trads seem to love our crazy mixing of colors, from madras to plaid and everything in between. The Fun shirt is a prime specimen of this pigment fixation, and as Heavy Tweed Jacket says, it is the "GTH benchmark" of all shirts. Dearly beloved or strongly despised, the shirt had it's humble beginnings in the early 1980s as the perfect shirt for the preppiest of the preps. As the perverted offspring of an university stripe OCBD, or several OCBDs for that matter, the Fun shirt has gone through many changes in the last 30 years but still remains as one of the most identifiable shirts in the history of going to hell. It is still offered time to time and depending on the season, but unfortunately BB has discontinued the most famous version pictured below.

1985 Fun shirt, taken from HTJ

A cousin of the original, a 2009 Non-Iron version. I purchased this at the BB factory store and sold it.

I admit I don't wear the Fun shirt on many occasions, although I have three versions of it! Reason being it is too loud to be worn regularly, and you can never escape the noticeable glances from all directions on the event you do take the leap to wear it. That's too much for an unprepared psyche. I tend to put it on when I go on vacations to warm climates (where I don't know anyone and vice versa), the last time being in near-tropical Miami. I also wear it to fancy places where the passerby may be able to appreciate it without gawking. The other main reason is candid but true....it's a gay shirt. Now, I am comfortable with my sexuality but it is what it is. So I would never wear it to somewhere like the classroom, which is telling of the times as if this were 1984, the BB fun shirt would be a hit with my peers, instead of detested and blatantly questioned.

My collection:

Top, BB Fun shirt, eBay

Middle, Ralph Lauren custom fit, gift

Bottom, BB Tartan Fun shirt, Garland Factory store

So how do I wear the BB shirt without looking like I need a big red nose and facepaint? Same as with all GTH items...very subtly. The shirt is very flashy and cannot be mixed with anything else too bright or overstated. I usually pair it with neutral colored khaki shorts or chinos and a navy surcingle or leather belt.

When wearing the Fun shirt, you should try your best to fit the preppy mold. Short inseam shorts, penny loafers (or boat shoes, driving loafers, etc) sockless, rolled up sleeves, etc. That way you have a chance of being labeled a WASP instead of another four letter word...

My BB Tartan Fun shirt is for the fall and winter seasons. Here I paired it with chinos and desert boots, although it may work with brown or olive corduroys or wool pants. But since the shirt is dark in hue, I like balancing it out with a light bottom tone.

The RL shirt under a navy V neck light sweater. The solid navy downplays the strong pattern of the shirt. Just the right amount of color splash for the next cool summer evening when you're breathing in the sea salt and ocean breeze at the restaurant patio by the docks.

Matching stripes can work, as long as the patterns are different but complimenting. This Brooks Brothers sportsjacket has a quiet rust colored pinstripe which is on the other end of the spectrum with the RL shirt's louder multi-colored stripes.

Trad Mannerisms: Go to Hell

With Memorial Day behind us we have officially arrived in the summer season, although this week's 90+ degree highs in my area makes it feel like the dog day afternoons of August instead of the early morning skies of June.

Summer is a great time for the infamous "Go to Hell" look, which if you do not know by now refers to a certain attitude with clothing, as if to say Yes I am wearing yellow pants and I don't care...Go to hell! GTH usually refers to bright coloring but can also relate to the unusual material or loud presentation of your attire, such as incorporating seersucker bowties or motif belts. It works best during summer, and so the warm temperatures are the trad's excuse to break out the pastels with their preppy brotheren and rejoice in walking the fine line between confidence and irony.

What makes GTH inherently trad/preppy is the rich history behind it. Ivy Style has an amazing article about the origins of the look and you can see how it has risen to its popularity nowadays. Before, the GTH mindset was clear and defined by the very name of the style, with only a few people brave enough to break the color barriers, whereas now it is more common with dear ol' Ralph Lauren paving the way in its popularity. You may still get a few glances here and there depending on where you live, but at least you can rely on the fact that the look is supported in mainstream fashion.

Of course, another reason GTH is firmly infused in the preppy look is largely due to its placement in today's culture, usually with a negative connotation. Is GTH douchey? Short answer...of course. Look at any typical teenage movie where the cool-headed hero fights the villainous typecast rich preppy kid with a mean spirited personality (like that Delta Iota Kappa kid in Van Wilder). Or these douches from Take Me Home Tonight. Not to mention the king of all rich kid parodies, the Youtube video Tea Partay. GTH is the lifeblood of the White-Anglo-Saxon-Protestant preppy types, but does it mean they all drive Bentleys, spit on the working class, and use hundred dolla' bills as toilet paper just because they want to wear kelly green shorts instead of boring khaki ones? Short answer....what you don't? Yes jk. It is your character that defines you, not your clothes. Let the haterz hate.

Like with all clothing, there are rules that you should follow before donning on the bleeding madras. Rules fly in the face of the very reason behind GTH, but following these will save you from looking like a clown or being thrown out of your law school interview.

1) One GTH item at a time, or in few cases, if there are two items then the other must be subtle. You want your outfit to look tasteful to help downplay the douchiness of it!

2) Keep it seasonal. For example, multi-colored linen shorts for the warmer months only, not for fall and winter.

3) Be weary of the occasion. If you are going to class then it's ok to put on your nantucket reds but please keep them at home for funerals. If you have any doubts about whether or not you want to be noticed by your GTH attire, then don't wear it and save it for a more festive occasion.

I've collected a few pictures of myself in the GTH look. Below is a casual outfit illustrating Rule #1, where the nantucket red shorts are balanced with a neutral grey t shirt. Since the baseball cap is also somewhat loud in color with its unique blue shade, the shorts are the "large" item and the baseball cap is the "subtle" item.

Lacrosse tournament t shirt, thrifted

Land's End shorts

Sperry Boat shoes

Heading to the pool. And one of the only times you will ever see me in flip flops. Vineyard Vines 7" inseam chappy trunks are extremely GTH. The ones I have on are actually pretty simple compared to their other designs.

Ralph Lauren pocket long sleeve shirt

Vineyard Vines chappy swim shorts

Rainbow sandals

Ray Ban aviators

Grey polo and yellow shorts.

Ralph Lauren polo

Caribbean Joe linen shorts, tailored to 8" inseam.

Sperry Boat shoes

We've unfortunately witnessed alot of tornadoes this year across the nation so early in the season. This was taken a week ago on a stormy day that produced such violent weather in the Midwest before the front hit my area in the Southeast. Best wishes to those affected.

The Patagonia Torrentshell that I picked up recently came in handy. I like the Bali Blue color because it makes the outfit brighter on a gloomy rainy day. I consider it mildly GTH, and orange cap, shorts, and rain boots add to the preppy effect.

Patagonia Torrentshell Rain Jacket

Ralph Lauren shorts.

Nike Baseball cap, naturally distressed over years of wear.

LL Bean boots

Real men wear pink.

Brooks Brothers t shirt

J Crew seersucker shorts

Persol sunglasses

Sperry Boat shoes

Another example of Rule #1. The motif belt plays the subtle GTH item.

Brooks Brothers OCBD

Ralph Lauren pants

Leatherman Ltd Belt

LL Bean blucher mocs

Ray Ban aviators

The fabled Brooks Brothers "Fun Shirt". This is good example of why I consider the navy blue surcingle belt paramount to have in your closet. The extreme GTH presence of the shirt makes it nearly impossible to wear any thing else loud without making the whole outfit look tacky. The navy belt helps ground the look. And since the Fun Shirt is meant to be worn casually in the summer, you want the belt fabric to reflect the warm weather. Leather would be ok but cotton (namely surcingle) is better. A solid navy surcingle is the perfect answer.

Brooks Brothers "Fun Shirt" OCDB

Ralph Lauren shorts

Land's End surcingle belt

Cole Haan Penny Loafers

The watch in the above pics is my new Seiko.

Edit 6/4/11: Someone had nicely mentioned that some of the items above may no longer be considered GTH. Admittingly, I stretched the term for the blue baseball cap and so on, but the idea behind Nantucket Red shorts remains even though it is no longer that special to be seen wearing in public. That IvyStyle article explained the rise of GTH from a time when the term truly meant the sartorial emotions defined by literally saying "Go to Hell", to now where it is a simple catchphrase spread by the popularity of the preppy look on the internet and the fashion houses of the world. Red shorts may be common in my and your area, but the idea remains and the sensitization of GTH has made it tougher to "out-GTH" the next attire. Before, it was red pants and pink shirts. Now, it is 4 paneled shorts with lime green, sky blue, fuchsia and pink. Tomorrow, it will be a Hula girls embroided into your madras shirt....oh too late.